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Hyderabad

City on the Musi founded by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah around 1589–91 as Bhagnagar. It was the Qutb Shahi capital until 1687, then a Mughal provincial seat. From the 1720s it was the capital of the Asaf Jahi Nizams.

The Charminar in Hyderabad against a deep blue sky, with its four minarets and large arches.
The Charminar in Hyderabad against a deep blue sky, with its four minarets and large arches. · DidierTais (opens in a new tab) · CC BY-SA 3.0 (opens in a new tab)

Hyderabad lies on the right (south) bank of the Musi, a tributary of the Krishna.1 The Imperial Gazetteer of 1909 placed it at 17°22′ N, 78°27′ E, and called it the fourth largest city in the Indian Empire.1 It was founded by the Qutb Shahi sultan Muhammad Quli as a new capital beside the old fortress of Golconda.23

Foundation

Ferishta says that the king built “a magnificent city at the distance of eight miles” from Golconda.4 He named it Bhagnagar after a singer, Bhagmati, whom he loved, and the city “has since received the name of Hydurabad”.4 Bilgrami and A. Claude Campbell’s Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898) both say that the king gave the city the new name after Bhagmati’s death.35

The Golconda chronicle translated by Briggs gives the year as AH 998 (1589–90; AH is the Islamic way of counting years).2 It says that the court moved because Golconda was cramped and short of water.2 Bilgrami gives AH 999 (1590–91).3 He adds that seven years later the city received the chronogram title Farkhunda Bunyad (“of auspicious foundation”).3 Aurangzeb changed it to Dar-ul-Jihad after the conquest, and the emperor Shah Alam later restored it.3 The Imperial Gazetteer gives 1589.6

The chronicle says that the courtiers competed in building palaces and gardens, and that water was brought in “in every direction”.7 It claims that the extra irrigation raised the land revenue by four lakhs of huns (gold coins) a year.7 At the centre stood the Charminar, and near it the Jami Masjid (see the inscription).7 Around them were palaces, baths, colleges and a hospital.7

The Qutb Shahi city

The French jeweller Tavernier sometimes spent three or four months at a time in the city under Abdullah Qutb Shah (1626–1672).8 He described it like this:8

“The town is nearly the size of Orleans, well built and well opened out, and there are many fine large streets in it, but not being paved … they are full of sand and dust; this is very inconvenient in summer.”9

He crossed the Musi by a stone bridge “scarcely less beautiful than the Pont Neuf at Paris”. He says that the merchants and artisans lived in a long suburb on the far bank.9 The town itself was home to the nobility, officials and soldiers.9

He saw the royal palace with gardens on its terraced roofs, and an enormous mosque under construction (see Mecca Masjid).10 He also saw two large tanks with the king’s pleasure boats.10 Strangers were searched at the gates for salt and tobacco, which yielded much of the king’s revenue.10

The Imperial Gazetteer lists the surviving Qutb Shahi buildings:11

  • the Charminar (1591)
  • the Char Kaman (1593)
  • the Dar-ush-Shifa hospital
  • the Ashur Khana (1594)
  • the Purana Pul bridge (1593)
  • the Jami Masjid (1596)
  • the Gosha Mahal
  • the Mecca Masjid11

The Husain Sagar tank north of the city covers eight square miles when full.12 The gazetteer dates it to about 1575, under Ibrahim Qutb Shah.12 Bilgrami instead credits it to Husain Shah Wali, the king’s son-in-law, in AH 970 (1562).13

Mughal and Nizam capital

A Mughal army approached during Aurangzeb’s last Deccan campaign.14 Abul Hasan withdrew to Golconda, and the city was plundered, first by its own rabble and then by the Mughal troops.14 After 1687 Hyderabad was the seat of a Mughal governor. According to the Imperial Gazetteer, the last of these governors, Mubariz Khan, began the city wall, and the first Nizam completed it.6

It was a stone wall with thirteen gates and twelve posterns (small gates), about six miles round.6 Campbell gives the same account of the wall.15 He names its thirteen gates, among them the Chadarghat, Afzal, Delhi, Champa, Purana Pul and Mir Jumla gates.15

The first Nizam, Asaf Jah, defeated Mubariz Khan in 1724 (Gribble gives 1723).16 He then made the city his capital.16

Under the Nizams the city grew beyond its walls. The British Residency on the north bank was begun in 1800 and finished about 1807.17 The cantonment (army station) of Secunderabad, named after the Nizam Sikandar Jah, grew up six miles to the north-east.18 It housed the British troops of the Subsidiary Force, paid for under the treaty of 1800.18

The suburb of Chadarghat was almost empty in 1850, but by 1909 it was full of houses, offices and colleges.19 The Nizams from Nizam Ali Khan onwards were buried in the grounds of the Mecca Masjid.20 In September 1908 the Musi rose in a sudden flood.21 It carried away arches of three bridges and caused great loss of life and property.21

In 1874 the Nizam’s Guaranteed State Railway linked Secunderabad to Wadi, on the Great Indian Peninsula line from Bombay.22 Campbell dates the opening of this 121-mile section to October 1874. He thought the Hyderabad terminus badly placed, about two miles from the city and away from every centre of trade.23

At the census of 1891 the city with its suburbs, the Residency Bazaars and the cantonment had 415,039 people. Campbell rounds this to 415,000, and gives 181,000 for the city without its suburbs.115

In 1901 the city, with its suburbs and cantonment, had 448,466 people:1

  • 243,241 Hindus
  • 189,152 Muslims
  • 13,923 Christians
  • smaller numbers of Sikhs, Parsis and Jains1

Osmania University was founded by the Nizam’s charter in 1918.24 It was the first university in India to teach through a vernacular (Indian) language, Urdu, with English as a compulsory second language.24

The river, its bridges and floods

In 1909 four bridges crossed the Musi at Hyderabad.6 They were the Purana Pul (“old bridge”) in the west, the Oliphant Bridge in the east, and between them the Afzal Bridge and the Champa Gate Bridge.6

The Imperial Gazetteer and Campbell give the same figures for the Purana Pul: 23 arches, 600 feet long, 33 feet broad and 54 feet above the river-bed, built in 1593.2526 Bilgrami disagrees.27 He dates the bridge to AH 986 (1578), fourteen years before the new city, under Muhammad Quli’s father Ibrahim Qutb Shah, and he counts 22 arches.27 He says that in Qutb Shahi times it was called Pul-e-Narva, narva being Telugu for a causeway.27 He also repeats a tradition that Ibrahim ordered the bridge after the young prince rode through the flooded Musi to visit Bhagmati.27

Campbell says that the Oliphant Bridge was built in 1831 by Colonel Oliphant of the Madras Engineers. He gives its inscription.28 It records that the bridge was built by order of the Nizam Nasir-ud-daula, during the ministry of Raja Chandu Lal.28

Campbell also gives the inscription of the Afzal Bridge.29 It names the Nizam Afzal-ud-daula, the minister Salar Jang, the Resident Colonel Cuthbert Davidson and the architect G. W. Marrett.29

Campbell writes that for most of the year the Musi was a thin stream on a sandy bed about an eighth of a mile wide.30 Melons and rice were grown on the dry parts.30 But in the rains it had more than once swept away part of the city wall.30 He records floods in 1748 and 1771.30

He says that 2,000 people were believed to have died in the second flood.30 Bilgrami records a “famous flood” of AH 1236 (1820).27 After it the minister Chandu Lal had the Purana Pul rebuilt, in the reign of Sikandar Jah, and an inscription on the bridge records the work.27 The bridge was repaired again after the flood of 1908.27

About the sources. No other source in this project’s library mentions Campbell’s floods of 1748 and 1771.

After 1948

About the sources. This project’s library has almost nothing on the city after Indian independence.

One small trace survives.31 In October 1956 B. Ramakrishna Rao, signing as Chief Minister of Hyderabad, wrote at Hyderabad the foreword to a corpus of Telangana inscriptions.31 The Government of Andhra Pradesh published the corpus that year.31

Footnotes

  1. Imperial Gazetteer of India: Hyderabad State (1909), p. 114 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4 ↩5

  2. Golconda chronicle, in Briggs, Rise of the Mahomedan Power, Vol. III (1829), p. 451 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3

  3. Syed Ali Asgar Bilgrami, Landmarks of the Deccan (1927), p. 17 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4 ↩5

  4. Muhammad Qasim Ferishta, tr. John Briggs, History of the Rise of the Mahomedan Power in India, Vol. III (1829), p. 335 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  5. A. Claude Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898), p. 122 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  6. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 115 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4 ↩5

  7. Briggs, Rise of the Mahomedan Power, Vol. III (1829), pp. 451–452 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4

  8. Tavernier, Travels in India, Vol. I (1889), p. 156 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  9. Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, tr. V. Ball, Travels in India, Vol. I (1889), pp. 151–152 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3

  10. Tavernier, Travels in India, Vol. I (1889), pp. 152–154 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3

  11. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), pp. 115–116 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  12. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 118 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  13. Bilgrami, Landmarks (1927), p. 110 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  14. J. D. B. Gribble, A History of the Deccan, Vol. I (1896), pp. 300–301 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  15. Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898), p. 157 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3

  16. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 15 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)); Gribble, History of the Deccan (1896), p. 376 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  17. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 117 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  18. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 119 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  19. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 113 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  20. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 116 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)); Bilgrami, Landmarks (1927), pp. 36–37 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  21. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 119, note (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  22. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), pp. 45–46 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  23. Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898), pp. 143, 145 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  24. Census of India 1931, Vol. XXIII: H.E.H. the Nizam’s Dominions, Part I: Report (1933), pp. 216–217 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  25. Imperial Gazetteer: Hyderabad (1909), p. 116 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  26. Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898), p. 214 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩

  27. Bilgrami, Landmarks (1927), pp. 10–12 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4 ↩5 ↩6 ↩7

  28. Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898), p. 217 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  29. Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898), p. 159 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2

  30. Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam’s Dominions (1898), pp. 157, 159 (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4 ↩5

  31. P. Sreenivasachar (ed.), A Corpus of Inscriptions in the Telingana Districts of Andhra Pradesh, Part III (1956), title page and foreword (archive.org (opens in a new tab)). ↩ ↩2 ↩3

Photos

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References

Sources (8)
  1. Government of India, Imperial Gazetteer of India, Provincial Series: Hyderabad State (opens in a new tab), Superintendent of Government Printing, Calcutta, 1909, pp. 15, 45–46, 113–119. [Public domain]
  2. Muhammad Qasim Ferishta (tr. John Briggs), History of the Rise of the Mahomedan Power in India till the Year A.D. 1612, Vol. III (opens in a new tab), Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown and Green, London, 1829, pp. 335, 451–452. [Public domain]
  3. Syed Ali Asgar Bilgrami, Landmarks of the Deccan: A Comprehensive Guide to the Archaeological Remains of the City and Suburbs of Hyderabad (opens in a new tab), Government Central Press, Hyderabad-Deccan, 1927, pp. 10–11, 17, 36–37, 110. [Public domain]
  4. Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (tr. V. Ball), Travels in India, Vol. I (opens in a new tab), Macmillan & Co., London, 1889, pp. 151–154, 156. [Public domain]
  5. J. D. B. Gribble, A History of the Deccan, Vol. I (opens in a new tab), Luzac & Co., London, 1896, pp. 301, 376. [Public domain]
  6. A. Claude Campbell, Glimpses of the Nizam's Dominions, Being an Exhaustive Photographic History of the Hyderabad State, Deccan, India (opens in a new tab), C. B. Burrows, Bombay, 1898, pp. 122, 143–145, 157, 159, 214, 217. [Public domain]
  7. Khan, Gulam Ahmad, Census of India 1931 vol.23 H.E.H. the Nizamʼs dominions (Hyderabad State); pt.1- Report (opens in a new tab), 1933, pp. 216–217. [Public domain]
  8. P. Sreenivasachar (ed.), A Corpus of Inscriptions in the Telingana Districts of Andhra Pradesh, Part III (opens in a new tab), Government of Andhra Pradesh, 1956, foreword. [Public domain in India]

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